Photographing Meteor Showers Part 3
In Photographing Meteor Showers Part 1 I defined meteors, meteor showers & radiant source. I also mentioned Lyrid would be the next meteor shower on April 21st & 22nd. In Part 2 I discussed how to find a meteor shower radiant and listed resources helpful in the planning stage of capturing the event as a photograph.
Here in Part 3 I’ll discuss two methods for capturing meteors and a specific field exposure workflow.
Visualize the Final Photo & Plan the Actual Exposure Workflow
Once you’ve identified a feasible and practical dark sky location and have a night sky photo plan, there are a couple more questions to think about. First, how do you want the final image to look? And second, what will your exposure workflow look like?
Meteor Shower Photo Objective
The primary objective for most photographer’s is to capture a dark sky scene with an interesting foreground, sharp crisp stars, and multiple meteors with long tails rocketing through the image. Conversely you may choose to create a photo that has an interesting foreground, star trails plus meteor streaks.
Exposure Options
No matter which final image vision you choose, both objectives will require some exposure forethought.
To create an image with sharp crisp stars PLUS meteor streaks, the exposure must be long enough to allow meteors to travel through the image AND short enough to prevent star elongation (blur caused by star movement).
If you choose to take a single long exposure, expect star trails with meteor streak layered on top. In my humble opinion images with both star trails and meteors that also include an interesting foreground are visually busy and can be hard on the eyes. That said, it really is personal choice.
Lyrids meteor shower plan for The Steens area in southeast Oregon.
From a practical point of view, the disadvantage of creating a non star trail meteor shower image is that it requires a solid foundation of the exposure triangle concept understanding and advanced editing skills. Here’s what that process looks like.
Take multiple 10 to 30 second exposures over a 3 or 4 hour period. Then, afterwards, merge the 200 to 400 exposures into a single image. The result can be stunning but again there is a learning curve.
Taking a single long exposure of 15 to 30 minutes has its downside too. In general, long exposures cause image noise (image graininess) secondary to camera sensor heat build-up. These images are less attractive and, in some cases, unprintable.
So what’s the answer? I suggest you start with the long single exposure method. There are fewer moving parts to manage. Meantime research and practice what it takes to edit multiple images into a single photo.
One other thought. You can always use the multiple image workflow. Then afterwards simply select an image that has one or more meteors. You’ll get the best of both worlds.!
Field Preparation Steps
Get to the location before it gets dark.
Use your research notes and a compass or the PhotoPills augmented reality feature to find or guesstimate the meteor shower sky radiant location (origin of meteors).
Scout the location and pick an interesting foreground. Have an alternative to the right and to the left of your first choice in case the radiant isn’t where you anticipated it to be.
You’ll need a wide angle lens to include as much sky as possible. It is better to have a lens with a large aperture like f/2.8. An f/4 lens is not ideal but will work.
Know if the radiant is rising or setting as it travels across the sky. Compose the image with the radiant in the frame. Give it room to move as it rises or falls over time.
Exposure Workflows
Single Exposure Method
Do these things ahead of time.
Select manual camera mode.
Select manual focus.
Turn OFF lens VR (vibration Reduction).
Turn Noise Reduction ON but Long Exposure Noise Reduction OFF.
Select a Kelvin white balance between 3500 and 4500.
Insert a fully charged battery.
Mount the camera to the tripod and compose a photo.
Single Exposure Process
Select an ISO of 6400 or higher, an aperture of f/2.8 or the smallest number possible & set the shutter speed to 30 second. This will brighten the screen allowing you to more easily get a focus.
Compose the photo.
Use the + button to zoom in on a star. Manually focus to make the star sharp & crisp.
Take a test photo. Use the + button to zoom in on a star. Is it sharp & in focus? Or, is it elongated because it moved during the 30 second exposure?
If star sharp, check the histogram. Is it shifted to the right margin, too bright? If so decrease ISO to 4000 and repeat test process until the histogram is mostly in the middle of the graph. If histogram is shifted to the left increase ISO or add 5 seconds to exposure time.
If star not sharp, repeat focus process, step 1, 2 & 3.
Multiple Exposure Process
Do these things ahead of time.
Select manual camera mode.
Select manual focus.
Turn OFF lens VR (vibration Reduction).
Turn Noise Reduction ON but Long Exposure Noise Reduction OFF.
Select a Kelvin white balance between 3500 and 4500.
Insert a fully charged battery.
Mount the camera to the tripod and compose a photo.
Connect interval timer shutter release device.
Multiple Exposure Process
Select an ISO of 6400 or higher, an aperture of f/2.8 or the smallest number possible & set the shutter speed to 30 second. This will brighten the screen allowing you to more easily get a focus.
Compose the photo.
Use the + button to zoom in on a star. Manually focus to make the star sharp & crisp. Or, shine a flashlight on a foreground object and focus using the hyperfocal method.
Take a test photo. Use the + button to zoom in on a star. Is it sharp & in focus? Or, is it elongated because it moved during the 30 second exposure?
If star sharp, check the histogram. Is it shifted to the right margin? If so decrease ISO to 4000 and repeat test process until the histogram is mostly in the middle of the graph. If histogram shifted to the left increase ISO or add 5 seconds to exposure time.
If star not, repeat focus process, step 1, 2 & 3.
Set the interval timer as follows; set best test exposure exposure time that results in tack sharp stars, set the interval time to 2 seconds, and set the number of images to 200 - 400.
Fore more detailed information about these exposure processes, purchase my Introduction to Night Sky Photography: Basic Planning & Technique Guide.
Summary
Night sky photography can be rewarding. Photographing meteor showers is especially rewarding. If you’re willing to; learn a bit about the night sky, research astro events, do some pre-planning, and practice night photography skills you will surely capture unique photos.
Do not hesitate to call (480-204-3109) or email (steve@giardiniphotography.com) with questions. I’d be happy to help.
Cheers,
Steve